Chasing Mysteries: The Search for Bagaboo, St. Thomas' Tallest Waterfall in St. Thomas
“Only where you have walked on foot have you really been.” – Messner.
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In the lush hills of St. Thomas, Jamaica, Emelio and I embarked on a quest familiar to us both—hunting for hidden waterfalls. Our journey, fueled by a passion for discovery and the promise of uncovering Jamaica's lesser-known treasures, led us deep into the heart of this scenic parish.
Emelio and I have been in St. Thomas, having the time of our lives doing what we love—hunting for waterfalls. Simone and I had big plans for my book, which was to feature the least explored hidden gems in Jamaica, and we were making great progress.
St. Thomas was rumored to have no waterfalls except for Reggae Waterfall, but Emelio and I proved that wrong. Even in the parish of Manchester, I found not one, not two, not three, but four waterfalls.
Though only a few may have the courage to venture to some of the places we explored, I am happy to share my experiences with my fellow Jamaicans and the world, showcasing the beauty and uniqueness of my home, Jamaica.
After spending months in St. Thomas exploring, I thought it was time to move on to other parishes, but Emelio had other plans. He told me about another waterfall in Jamaica that might be the tallest in St. Thomas.
I decided that a few more weeks in St. Thomas wouldn't hurt, even though I longed to return to Portland and St. Ann, where I had much unfinished exploring to do and new adventures to start.
I asked someone to do some groundwork on Bagaboo Waterfall for me. The journey took them through a community called Half Mile, along Jackfruit Walk, in a place called Monkey Hill. They were bombarded by ticks that stayed on them for more than three days, which worried me because ticks are my worst nightmare.
Fortunately, they found another route to Bagaboo Waterfall because they couldn't bear the thought of returning to Monkey Hill. Nonetheless, I prepared with four bottles of repellent, taking no chances.
My tour guide didn't know where the waterfall was, but he was determined to find it by following the instructions given to him.
So, I headed to Bath Fountain and took a bike taxi to the community of Hayfield. We passed beautiful mountain views. Public transportation is scarce in this part of St. Thomas; bike taxis or walking are the primary means of getting around.
We parked the bike at the entrance of the Cuna Cuna Pass trail and ventured into the hills, home to some of Jamaica's endemic species, such as the Swallowtail Butterfly.
We passed a large mango tree with many ripe mangoes underneath it, trying our best not to step on them while tiny flies feasted.
We turned right into the rainforest, hearing woodpeckers in the distance and birds singing beautiful music as we hiked into the unknown.
We climbed up and down steep hills. I almost gave up, sliding on dry bamboo leaves, looking over precipices, and walking on tracks so narrow that I had to place one foot in front of the other. It felt like I was risking my life on the hunt for Bagaboo Waterfalls.
At one point, we found ourselves on top of Jamaica, with a breathtaking view. My tour guide decided to dig for cassava and found a few.
We continued climbing, but Bagaboo Waterfall was nowhere to be found. He said we were at Bagaboo River, but I asked where the waterfall was, and he couldn't answer. We searched until we realized we were at the top of Bagaboo Waterfall. There was no way down. I started to argue, feeling frustrated that there was no reward after the hike.
There were two mini waterfalls, and while they were beautiful, they couldn't fill the void left by not seeing Bagaboo Waterfall. I wasn't going to hike so far and not get any content, so I enjoyed the mini waterfalls and the natural swimming pool.
Emotions ran high, and I found myself questioning the journey and my guide's knowledge. Yet, amidst the disappointment, I reflected on past experiences and realized that such quests are as much about the journey as they are about the destination.
This situation reminded me of my Nonsuch experience, which was identical. My tour guide had taken me to the top of Nonsuch Waterfall.
Forgiveness came with understanding; my guide shared my passion for discovery and had led with good intentions. We spent a few minutes before starting the dangerous hike uphill again. Night caught us in Hayfield.
I met an elderly couple who told me about a farmer that knew the way to Bagaboo Waterfall, so I took the wife's number for when I was ready to explore this part of St. Thomas again.
Bagaboo Waterfall may have eluded me this time, but the journey itself was a testament to the thrill of exploration and the resilience required to chase dreams. In the quest for hidden gems, unexpected challenges and disappointments are part of the adventure. Would I be upset with my guide? Perhaps momentarily, but understanding and shared passion ultimately prevail in the pursuit of nature's secrets
Do you think I was wrong for being upset at my tour guide for not knowing where the waterfall was? Would you be upset at your tour guide if you didn’t find a hidden gem that you set out to discover? Let me know in the comment section below!